A whole different terrain…

The next part of our journey brought us to the island of Kyushu and the Kumamoto Prefecture. Japan is divided into 47 prefectures, forming the first level of jurisdiction and administrative division. They consist of 43 prefectures proper, two urban (Osaka and Kyoto), one “circuit” or “territory” (Hokkaido) and one “metropolis” (Tokyo).

Kyushu is the southwestern most of Japan’s main islands. It has a mostly subtropical climate and is known for its active volcanoes, beaches and natural hot springs. We based ourselves in the Mount Aso National Park area.

Getting there was an early start from Iya Valley, a 225 mile drive, numerous bridges and tunnels and a ferry ride!

Us ladies would like to put on record our appreciation to our men folk for all the driving and navigating they did. They took it in turns by driving before and after lunch and whoever drove in the afternoon, drove again the following morning. The handing over of the keys became a ritual which was followed by the new non driver having a beer!!
£90 for our ferry fare – you wouldn’t get that with Stena!

Now, I need to comment on our brunch stop on the way down! Since leaving Tokyo, and our local support, we have done pretty well ordering food in restaurants by looking at menus and pointing at the pictures. This stop was a whole new experience…

It isn’t a condom machine as I first thought! You buy a ticket at this machine for what you want to order!
You can see it got so complicated we tried to engage some local help! Once you have your ticket you take a seat and wait until your number is called.
Result wasn’t too bad a brunch but the coffee machine was a whole other experience which we gave up on.

Miles done (Paul is firmly of he belief that Trevor is purposely giving him the very narrow roads to drive) our accommodation was at Wakka guesthouse. “Wakka” means “clean water” in Ainu language.  We decided that is was more like posh glamping. A timber cabin which had two rooms on either end and a shared bath/shower room in the middle. Each room has its own toilet and vanity unit together with a small kitchenette with fridge/freezer, microwave and toaster. The front of the cabin had patio doors which overlooked Mt. Aso.

Yes – you guessed it – we were sitting and sleeping on the floor!
The couple who own the guesthouse are both chefs who have relocated from Tokyo. If booked in advance you can have them cook dinner for you – what a treat!

Aso’s ancient caldera ranks among the world’s largest, with a diameter of up to 25 kilometers and a circumference of over 100 kilometers and is a UNESCO Global Geopark. Surrounding the plains and volcanic clusters, the outer rims form a gently sloping pyroclastic plateau. This unique geography is formed by the Aso Volcano, which has displayed repeated volcanic activity since approximately 270,000 years ago.

Picture of the 3D model in the tourist information centre of the caldera and volcanos

In the center of the caldera stand the mountain’s active volcanic peaks, including Mount Nakadake. Unfortunately it’s spectacular crater wasn’t accessible during our visit due to its volcanic activity.

Amazing to be so close to an active volcano – made for a very dirty car from the ash!!
Photo courtesy of Trevor… There she blows!
Across the caldera to Mount Nakadake
The rim of the caldera…. The road that runs through the expansive grasslands along the ancient rim is known as “Milk Road”, due to its large population of grazing cows. 
Sun setting on Mount Nakadake from the visitors centre
Early morning view of Mt Aso from our cabin
The start of our journey through the national park got off to a wobbly start when we came to a road closure five minutes in – the body of evidence building up that Paul gets all the narrow roads!

Takamori Yusui Tunnel Park

In December 1973 Japan National Railway Company started work on building a rail line to run across the prefectural border. The project was abandoned in February 1975 when they hit an underground river, while building a tunnel and water came gushing out. Instead a one kilometer stretch of the two kilometer tunnel was converted into a park. The volume of the water running beneath the wooden pathway is 32 tons per minute. The temperature at the end of the tunnel remains at 17 degrees Celsius throughout year, and it is possible to see the source of the river from where the excavation had originally taken place flowing like a waterfall. 

The tunnel has seasonal decorations like tanabata lanterns during the summer and Christmas decorations during the winter

Aso Shrine

Aso Shrine dates back 2300 years. Unfortunately the shrine was damaged by the earthquake and is currently being rebuilt. However, even if you cannot see the magnificent Romon (tower gate) and Haiden (worshiping hall), there is a drinking place called water base (Mizuki) in the approach to the shrine where, it is said, that those who wash in the water will enjoy the benefits of longevity.

Nabegataki Falls

The Nabegataki waterfall is said to have been created by a huge eruption about 90,000 years ago. The waterfall is a short walk from the carpark down a wooden walkway with a path to the area behind the waterfall, which is surprisingly spacious and provides beautiful views through the cascade. A truly beautiful place to visit with the combination of the falls, the water spray glistening in the air, the tall trees with the sunlight filtering through the trees – top value at 200yen (£1.50)

The waterfall is 10m high and 20m across
Behind the falls

Ikeyama Fountainhead

There is a bit of a theme developing on our sightseeing in this area! The Ikeyama Fountainhead is a source of spring water from rain fallen on
Kuju Volcanoes. The temperature of the water is 13.5°C throughout the
year and the amount gushing out is 30 tons per minute. It was accessed down a narrow lane that winds through the grassy highlands of the Ubuyama area north of Mt Aso. While Japanese silver grass covers most of the highland area this small pocket is ablaze with colorful maple trees. It’s a popular spot in any season for locals to come and fill up their water jugs.

Stunningly beautiful with the sunlight dancing through the trees
The water is so clear it is difficult to differentiate between the surface and it’s reflection
Trevor and Michelle decided to dip their feet in the water and, despite what the guide book says, they didn’t think it was anywhere near 13′

Food and other stuff!

A huckster of a place at the side of the road, no-one spoke English (and you know the only Japanese we have is hello and thank-you) – the food was excellent, freshly made and the woman serving wouldn’t serve beer to Paul until she seen him hand over the car keys to Trevor – now that’s a responsible landlady!
Lunch in Aso, where to choose – there was Mont Bistro on the right (top – where I had the close encounter with the toilet) or Angel Kiss on the left (bottom above!!) where June, Yuka, Jackie and Lovely where waiting to entertain…..
We think the scarecrows have followed us down from the Iya Valley – though these ones had more realistic and creepy faces!
We understand now why there is full employment in Japan – at any work site there is an army of people to wave you through or keep you back. Every public facility is spotless as are towns and villages.
So having ate well during the day we decided to do tapas back at the shed and then the boys got in to planning mode before the Monopoly Deal came out!

Our visit to the Mount Aso national park was short but very sweet. Rugby was calling and the final leg of our road trip to Fukuoka.

Until the next installment – take care, we are having a ball!!

6 Replies to “A whole different terrain…”

  1. 👍👍 l had forgotten about your blog. Very helpful. Think I need to read it at least twice! Lots of helpful stuff in here. X

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  2. Absolutely fascinating, you are giving us a real treat H&P. I’m a little curious if you actually know what you have eaten throughout this trip… 😁 safe travels

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    1. We might not know what we have ordered but we have been fortunate with what we have received! Only once did we make a mistake – lifting chicken skin skewers inside of chicken meat ones!

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  3. Love all photos but especially the ones with the ‘sunlight dancing through the trees’ Beautiful image.

    Hope you both took a good long soak in the waters promising longevity.

    Brilliant commentary Hazel Looking forward to next instalment already!
    Love and hugs to all.

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