Classic New Zealand Wine Trail…

This is how our route from Wellington to Napier was marked, in small print, on the map! The Classic New Zealand Wine Trail!

It brought us down through the stunning Rimutaka Crossing. We have decided, and are firmly of the opinion, that to go anywhere in New Zealand requires negotiating a mountain crossing – have I already mentioned the roads are twisty, like a helter skelter? I’ve yet to take a photograph that truly represents them!

The views from the top are amazing though!

Our first stop was Martinborough, well known as it features over 20 wineries, most within cycling and walking distance of the quaint village square. A pretty stop, it would have been rude not to try a wine or two – pity one of us was driving, luckily not me!

Margrain has been a family owned vineyard since 1992, and has a bit of a sad story. The land was bought, and vineyard planted to offset taxes for Mr Margrain’s construction company and give the Mrs Daryll Margrain a hobby. It pottered along until he retired and they were looking forward to spending time together at it and travelling but unfortunately she died. Makes us so grateful for every day we wake up. The winery has 14 hectares of vines and produces 15 wines, of which only five are sold outside the tasting room.

Now even I have my limits for wine tasting at 11am! We took a tour round the cellar doors and stopped next at Luna.

A very much more up market cellar door than some, purpose built, and a whole lot more vines! Wellington businessman Charlie Zheng, bought two vineyards in 2011 and 2014 and has renamed them, inspired by the moon and his daughters name. He ripped up the sauvignon blanc dominated vineyards and replanted them with pinot noir and more Chardonnay, to meet what he sees as a rising interest and demand.

With a bottle tucked under my arm for Paul to try later we headed off towards Masterton. If ever you are this way, give it a miss! We walked a good bit of the main street, had a “discussion”, walked back to the van and shook the dust from our feet – but where to? We were early for our next okay-2-stay and needed lunch!

We back-tracked to Gladstone Vineyard – now if ever you are this way….

The Flying Winemaker, founded by Eddie McDougall, bought the vineyard last year. There are 33 sauvignon blanc vines on 21 hectares plus land that is leased – a big way of going! We had a lovely couple of hours with Tricia!

http://nzetc.victoria.ac.nz/tm/scholarly/tei-PolFirs-t1-g1-g1-t5.html

Another site along the way, off the beaten track……. but…..

Our overnight stop was at Paulownia Vineyard, an Okay 2 Stay location (no fee, no facilities, buy some produce).

Paulownia Vineyard is owned by Vaughan and Christine Paul. They bought the land 20 years ago and began planning, then planting their vineyard while he was a pilot in the RNZAF, working at Defence HQ and Christine was managing a rest home. Until 2008 they were contract growers for other producers but the credit crisis meant survival depended on them making and marketing their own wine. They left their grapes until the very last minute to pick and came up with a very moreish Noble Sauvignon Blanc dessert wine to complement their Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Rosé and Riesling.

What’s wrong with the picture? They have decided to retire, again, and are in the process of completely ripping out the vineyard! However, they do have a few cases left and we spent nearly three hours sitting on their patio, shooting the breeze and tasting their wines. We wish them a long and happy retirement.

235km on up the road was Napier, renowned for its unique concentration of 1930s Art Deco architecture, built after much of the city was demolished in the 1931 Hawke’s Bay earthquake. Home for a couple of nights!

We did a bit of sightseeing in the town and round the coastline

Napier was declared a customs port in 1855. This building was opened in 1895 and served until 1953 when the department was moved to the city. The building fell in to disrepair unt it was purchased from the government in 1988 by the Hawke’s Bay Harbour Board and restored. It can be hired as a meeting place or event venue.

Of course, being in Napier there had to be a wine tasting

Next to this building is The Urban Winery, home to Tony Bish wines. They offer Hawke’s Bay wines to complement the Tony Bish Chardonnay range.

We had the pleasure of Garçon from Argentina talking us through our tasting. Decibel is owned by musician, Daniel Brennan who doesn’t actually own a vineyard!! He buys in grapes and is making some amazing wines! He also showcased the Easthope family – Gamay 2018 – only 1000 bottles were made!